New Graduate Showcase: Spring Edition and Beyond

As part of our support of fresh talent, we offer  graduates the chance to exhibit their work in our New Graduate Showcase at selected events. We take a look at this year's New Graduate exhibitors and cast a look back with Anna Byers, who exhibited in 2013 and is back again as a fully-fledged exhibitor for Spring Edition 2014...

Emerging Milliners

At Handmade in Britain new graduate designer makers display their work in a dedicated gallery area for the duration of the exhibition. In addition, each designer maker is given the opportunity to attend a specialised workshop with Handmade in Britain’s Creative Director Piyush Suri, aimed at preparing the designer maker for the show and offering invaluable business advice to support their future careers.

The graduates selected to exhibit at this year's Handmade in Britain: Spring Edition have completed the Higher National Certificate or HND in Millinery at Kensington and Chelsea College within the last four years and are emerging designers in their own right. Showcasing a broad variety of skills and styles, our five emerging milliners encapsulate the very best in their field...

Beth Simpson – Lady Go Red (HNC Millinery 2010, HND Millinery 2012) 
Lady Go Red was founded in London in 2012 and is a forward looking headwear label with a firm belief in craft, process and tradition. Beth Simpson is the designer behind it. She has been a finalist in The Hat Magazine’s Designer of the Year for the past three years, twice exhibiting her work at the Who’s Next trade show in Paris.ladygored.wordpress.com

Martine Henry (HNC Millinery 2013)

Martine primarily likes to work with natural materials. She is interested in taking traditional craft techniques from outside millinery and using them to create her hats. During her time at Kensington and Chelsea she was awarded 2^nd place in the Feltmakers’ Design Award. 

www.facebook.com/Martinehats

Sophie Beale (HNC Millinery 2011)

The creation of space and lightness are at the heart of Sophie Beale’s design aesthetic, over laid with synthesis of texture/depth, intricacy/simplicity, structure/fluidity, innovation/wearability. Winner of various awards and with experience working with a selection of iconic Milliners, her own brand is now sold internationally with a growing list of high profile clients. Bespoke commissions and collaborations available.

www.sophiebealemillinery.com

Iona Montgomery (HNC Millinery 2013)

London-based milliner Iona Montgomery specialises in ladies occasion wear, designing and making bespoke hats and headdresses as well as selling her unique ready-to-wear collections. ‘Sculptural femininity, Parisian sophistication’ is at the heart of Iona’s designs, representing ethereal luxury and delicate drama for the lady who wants to stand head and shoulders above the rest.

www.ionamontgomery.co.uk

Mary Franck (HNC Millinery 2011)

Established in July 2011, Mary Franck is a young brand which won instant professional recognition. In July 2012, Mary was awarded second price in at Hat Designer of the Year, competing against a strong field of designers. This international competition, with entries from over 60 countries, is sponsored by The Hat Magazine and Premiere Classe. Mary practises from her East London studio, designing and making seasonal collection and working on private commissions.

www.maryfranck.co.uk

Anna Byers

Anna Byer's was one of the finalists for the British Jeweller’s Association’s ‘Newcomer of the Year’ Award for 2013, having completed an MA in Jewellery Design at The Cass. Her statement jewellery is characterised by a bold, geometric style, influenced by her time spent living and working in Jerusalem, where she studied Hebrew, and worked in the studio of a jeweller.

Having exhibited as part of Handmade in Britain’s new graduate showcase in November 2013, her work features silver, gold vermeil and semi-precious stones, as well as perspex, stainless steel and black ruthenium plating.  

What was it about the Handmade show that drew you in as a Graduate?

'I always knew I wanted to exhibit at Handmade in Britain, because the standard of craftsmanship is so good, and there is always such beautiful work on show, that I think the show has gained an excellent reputation. Chelsea Town Hall is a beautiful setting, the location on the Kings Road attracts discerning and affluent customers, and the timing of that particular show, Handmade in Britain 13, in the run up to Christmas, was perfect!'

How did the workshops, mentoring and support provided help you to develop and learn, going into your first year as a new-graduate designer?

 'We all got together for coffee with Piyush, the show's director, a couple of months before the show, and we all had to bring examples of our work along. We discussed manufacturing processes and pricing structures, and how to get the most out of the exhibition. We learned some really useful things to help us launch our businesses. For me, the part about pricing was really interesting. Prior to that I had thought that I had it all figured out, but actually I learned some really useful things that influenced the way I now price my work.'

What about the Graduate Show that you were a part of last year did you find specifically helpful to your experience?

'I really enjoyed sharing the space with the four other graduate designers. We all got on really well, which made the experience really enjoyable, but I think we all learned from each other as well, as we spent four days together discussing the ins and outs of selling your work! I also really liked the size of the stand, and location that we were given. It was nice to be on the stage, we had a great view of the rest of the show. (And the rest of the show had a great view of us, which I think helped us quite a bit!)'

As you’re back again for Spring Edition, can you see improvements to your approach in the run-up to this year’s show in comparison to your first experience last year?  

'This time round, I have more of an idea of which pieces to bring! I always find it quite difficult deciding how many of each piece to make because it's hard to know what will sell. Last time, I ended up bringing one of everything. Now, I know which pieces I can expect to sell more of, so that has helped me prepare.  I also have some more ideas of how to set up my stand, and display my work, so I am feeling more prepared!'  

To find out more about Anna Byer's work head to: 

annabyers.com

www.facebook.com/AnnaByersJewellery

@Anna_J_Byers

To find out more about exhibiting in our November showcase as a new graduate, for membership and mentoring enquiries please email us at:

enquiries@handmadeinbritain.co.uk

Spring Edition is fast upon us! All the featured designer-makers in our blog posts will be exhibiting with us at Chelsea Old Town Hall. To find out more about the event, and book tickets head to: handmadeinbritain

Tickets now on sale

Handmade in Britain 14:
Spring Edition

The Contemporary Crafts & Design Fair

9th - 11th May 2014
Chelsea Old Town Hall, London

Spring Edition is open:
Friday 9th: 11:00 - 19:00
Saturday 10th: 11:00 - 18:00
Sunday 11th: 11:00 - 18:00

Tickets are available online now at £5
Tickets on the door are £7/£5 conc.

Ethical Design with Elsa Cappelli

Seven years ago, London-based accessory designer-maker Elsa Cappelli set out to source ethically produced materials for her work. For some, this might mean natural/sustainably produced/fair trade materials. Elsa went a few steps further - going out to a village in a remote area of Uganda to teach local women how to make the plaited braids she needed from locally occurring plant fibres. 

Elsa’s hats and headpieces are hand made in Britain, blending historic craft techniques with contemporary forms. They range from flattering sculptural headpieces with shapes and textures inspired by African artefacts to more conventional forms with exquisite detailing. Her inspiration comes from the natural colours and textures recorded on her Ugandan trips, an ongoing source of fascination.

The artisans in Uganda produce the braids for the hats as income generation for themselves and for their families. Through coming together as a group and learning new skills, the women have grown in confidence and in stature in their community. Proceeds from the project have enabled the women to invest in goat breeding as an additional activity.

“When I started this project, I had no idea how it would develop, I cannot believe how naïve I was. There have been so many challenges – communication not least! But the joys of working in this way and with these women more than compensate.”

As well as continuing to work in the medium of palm, Elsa has begun to use Ugandan barkcloth in her work. The production of this sustainable material is an important cultural craft in Uganda – Elsa is committed to finding contemporary applications for its use.

To contact Else Cappelli: info@elsacappelli.org.uk

Or to find out more head to : www.elsacappelli.org.uk

All the featured designer-makers in our blog posts will be exhibiting at Handmade in Britain's up coming event at the Chelsea Old Town Hall, Spring Edition. To find out more about the event, and book tickets head to: handmadeinbritain.co.uk

Tickets now on sale

Handmade in Britain 14:
Spring Edition

The Contemporary Crafts & Design Fair

9th - 11th May 2014
Chelsea Old Town Hall, London

Spring Edition is open:
Friday 9th: 11:00 - 19:00
Saturday 10th: 11:00 - 18:00
Sunday 11th: 11:00 - 18:00

Tickets are available online now at £5
Tickets on the door are £7/£5 conc.

Glass Blowing with Elliot Walker

Today we’re going to be looking at the work of Elliot Walker, glass-blower and sculptor. Discovering some of the mysteries of glass-blowing, and getting a sneak-preview of some of the pieces Elliot has been working on ahead of our Spring Edition show!

How did you first get into glass blowing?

‘I started glass blowing about 4 and a half years ago, but in the beginning I wanted to learn glass casting, it appealed more to my temperament as glass blowing is usually quite an extroverted and collaborative activity, whereas I enjoy working by myself.’

‘However, once you start blowing glass it’s very addictive, and I got hooked very quickly!

For those of us who might not know, is there a way you could simply explain how glass blowing works?

‘It’s actually very simple to explain the basics, but there are so many subtleties and directions that you can choose to take during the process that once the basics are dealt with it can begin to seem incredibly complex to beginners.’

‘Essentially, glass becomes a very viscous liquid like honey when it is over 800 degrees C, and it can then be inflated from the inside. As the surface has some tension, it stretches and then solidifies into a bubble. This can then be reheated and inflated more. You can blow glass so thin that it will blow away in a light breeze, much thinner than a soap bubble; this is really great to see!’

What is it about working in the medium of glass that you particularly enjoy?

‘I only really enjoy the finished piece. The process itself is exciting and you get a real buzz from it, but it is also hot and uncomfortable, not to mention risky and expensive. I often think that if I could make my work sitting on a sofa or in a nice bright studio, or like a painter- I would, without a doubt!’

How does working in glass differ from other sculptural forms of expression?

‘It’s so different, from any other medium in that at first it’s quite hard to learn. For example, if I hand you a lump of clay and ask you to sculpt a dog say, you could probably have a stab at it and produce something similar. But If I gave you a gather of glass and ask the same of you, the glass would be a smoking puddle on the floor within 2 minutes. I can’t make dogs even now!’

‘But once your over that, it’s a great medium as it’s almost alive and your emotional mood can affect the outcome as much as your technique. If I'm angry when I start, or calm, the glass seems to pick up on this and reflects that back at me.’

What is the difference between Glass Sculpture and Art Glass?

‘Art Glass is a loose term that I really don't care for. It is basically glass that has been made to promote and emphasise the beauty of the material rather than made for any functional use. This mostly applies to blown glass vessels that have been coloured in various complicated ways. The majority of British studio glass would be classed as Art Glass by some. As to Glass Sculpture, it’s sculpture made from glass, and those making it would consider themselves sculptors first, and glass blowers second I expect.’

You talk of your work as having a conceptual or emotional focus, where do you draw these focuses from, in terms of your own work (as opposed to a commissioned piece) what inspires your creative processes?

‘I think that there is a split in my inspirations that is developing slowly as I produce more work. The first is to do with how subtle deformations of the body and its posture can affect me emotionally, in a similar way to watching contemporary dance. I've never been much interested in detail, more in sweeping gestures.  I'm also interested in how my emotions effect the sculpture I make, this is really not something that I focus on, but I always notice that my favourite pieces have been made when I am feeling a certain way.’

‘The other influence on my work is depictions of 'God' through the human form, this is currently developing in my work at a slow pace, but is always in the back of my mind and prominent in my research and drawings.’

Have you exhibited at Handmade in Britain before?

‘No, I don't exhibit at many shows, as I mainly sell through galleries. But I do enjoy talking to people about my work.’

Have you got any pieces that are being made especially for the event that we can hope to see?

‘Yes, I am making a winged figure for the show that will be a focal piece, as well as showcasing some of my favourite pieces I have made over the past year.’

 ‘Everything I will be exhibiting has been made in the past 8 months, and many are quite unusual pieces in the fact that they are one offs that have their own names.’

Are there any other exhibitors you are particularly looking forward to seeing at Spring Edition?

'I really like the current ceramics scene in Britain and so I'm sure there will be fantastic things for me to look at, if I can get someone to watch my stand for a bit!'

You can find out more about Elliots work at ewalkerglassart.co.ukand www.facebook.com/ewalkerglassart

All the featured designer-makers in our blog posts will be exhibiting at Handmade in Britain's up coming event at the Chelsea Old Town Hall. To find out more about the event, and book tickets head to: handmadeinbritain.co.uk

Tickets now on sale

Handmade in Britain 14:
Spring Edition

The Contemporary Crafts & Design Fair

9th - 11th May 2014
Chelsea Old Town Hall, London

Spring Edition is open:
Friday 9th: 11:00 - 19:00
Saturday 10th: 11:00 - 18:00
Sunday 11th: 11:00 - 18:00

Tickets are available online now at £5
Tickets on the door are £7/£5 conc.

Spring Series: The Natural World Part Three

We takes a closer look at the creative world and inspirations of Cristina Sabaiduc & Jo Holland and Aline Johnson.

Join us this week as we get a closer insight to some of this year’s designer-makers discovering some of their creative influences and processes. Beginning with the stimuli of…

How do the materials you work in communicate and connect to spring and an awareness of the seasons?

Does the natural world influence your work and creative processes and if so how?

Cristina Sabaiduc designs graphic and colourful scarves with photographic artist Jo Holland, to create stylish and unique statement pieces.

‘Drawing inspiration from some most unexpected sources of beauty—moulding beetroots, crystallized feathers, frozen detergent, Transylvanian salt mines or medieval stained glass windows— they are given new life when captured by Jo through her entirely analogue photographic process that utilises light and colour with positive paper in a dark room.’

‘The resulting original artworks are then developed into scarf and fabric prints to be digitally printed on high quality silk twill.’

‘The imagery created is inspired by the coexistence of natural and industrial elements in our environment. The juxtaposition of animate and manufactured elements has developed into an exploration of dualities—a visual commentary on relationship between the wearer of the scarf and the ephemeral nature of the world in which we live.  The rugged beauty of the landscape in Romania, Switzerland, and Canada, the countries where Cristina was raised, continue to influence her.’  

To see more work from Cristina Sabaiduc: www.cristinasabaiduc.com

Aline Johnson makes glass leaf canopy chandeliers, and is part of cockpit Arts in Holborn. Using candy-coloured glass pieces she draws inspiration from the vibrant palette of beach paraphernalia, seaside rock and windbreak patterns which translate with ease into fused glass.

‘I am very much inspired by nature walking my dogs most early mornings on Hampstead Heath in particular this time of year when the first rays of morning sun shimmer through the delicate spring green leaves and create a beautiful ethereal sequence of movement and light and colour. I try to capture that in using glass and lights.’

‘I also spend a lot of time on the Dorset coast, where I beach comb while my dogs swim all year around.’

‘Found objects like driftwood, ammonites and feathers are used extensively in my work, I make imprints of both in plaster and slump glass into this. I have used driftwood to make frames for chandeliers.’

To find out more about Aline's work: www.alinejohnson.co.uk

All the featured designer-makers in our Spring Series: The Natural World blog posts will be exhibiting at Handmade in Britain's up coming event at the Chelsea Old Town Hall. To find out more about the event, and book tickets head to: www.handmadeinbritain.co.uk

Tickets now on sale

Handmade in Britain 14:
Spring Edition

The Contemporary Crafts & Design Fair

9th - 11th May 2014
Chelsea Old Town Hall, London

Spring Edition is open:
Friday 9th: 11:00 - 19:00
Saturday 10th: 11:00 - 18:00
Sunday 11th: 11:00 - 18:00

Tickets are available online now at £5
Tickets on the door are £7/£5 conc.

Spring Series: The Natural World Part Two

An exploration of the work of marquetarian Ian Smith, sea glass and silver from Almost Perfect, and the vivid scarves of Taisir Gibreel.

Join us this week as we get a closer insight to some of this year’s designer-makers discovering some of their creative influences and processes. Beginning with the stimuli of…

How do the materials you work in communicate and connect to spring and an awareness of the seasons?

Does the natural world influence your work and creative processes and if so how?

Almost Perfect Jewellery is designed and created by artist Rose Cecil who is based in the picturesque Cornish village of Mousehole. Her interest in the human relationship with the organic world inspires her jewellery collections.

‘Surrounded by inspiration, I explore ideas, textures and themes related to nature, the seasons and in particular the sea. I named my company Almost Perfect to reflect the fact that in nature nothing is perfect and is often more beautiful and interesting than the mechanical symmetry of manufactured pieces.’

‘Making jewellery provides the opportunity to be creative with extraordinarily beautiful and interesting materials. I trained first as a painter and then as a sculptor at Camberwell College. I see jewellery as an extension of my work as a fine artist and my materials as a three dimensional palette. Form, shape, colour and feel determine the design of a piece. I find inspiration all around me, especially in Cornwall where I live.’

‘The starting point for a piece may be a found texture or simply the beauty of a string of pearls. Inspired by the coast, and landscape, I use its forms, shapes and colours to create my signature pieces in metals and semi-precious stones.’

To see more work from Almost Perfect go to: www.almostperfect.co.uk/

Ian Smith is a marqutarian who works using age-old traditional techniques from his studio in Manchester.

‘As a professional marquetarian, the materials I work in connect to spring and the seasons as I work in wood and of course the trees are wonderful examples of the way the different seasons develop. A lot of my work directly reflects the seasons and the choice of veneers is an example of that.'

‘The natural world influences my work directly as I use natural materials to create my pictures! All my veneers reflect life and growth and my creative processes are stimulated by what I see. I am constantly looking for good subjects for my work, either from my own observations or those of my collaborators. These starting points are often taken directly from nature, not just from spring but all seasons.’

‘The choice of veneers symbolises the warmth or coldness of the season being depicted. I particularly love winter scenes based on the work of the old Dutch masters as the veneers again perfectly reflect the tone and atmosphere they were aiming for.’

To find out more about Ian and his work go to: www.themarquetryshack.com

Taisir Gibreel's Colourful scarves combine pattern and bold colour to create unique prints taking inspiration from the landscapes of her Sudanese- British heritage.

‘Bold structural imagery drawn from urban Scotland against a backdrop of colours and shapes from the Highlands, provides her with a treasure trove of rich colours and wonderful organic shapes. An eclectic fusion of cultures’

‘The Scottish landscapes provide me with a treasure trove of rich colours and wonderful shapes. I believe by showcasing my Sudanese and British roots and drawing inspiration from the colours and shapes of the Scottish Highlands, I create distinctive and unique prints.'

‘The collections of pure silk and wool scarves are bewitching, bold and abstract designs and we produce them in the UK and Italy insuring quality, which is of the utmost importance. Stunning, luxurious silk shift dresses will also soon be joining my expanding collection!’

To find out more about Taisir Gibreel: www.taisirgibreel.co.uk

All the featured designer-makers in our Spring Series: The Natural World blog posts will be exhibiting at Handmade in Britain's up coming event at the Chelsea Old Town Hall. To find out more about the event, and book tickets head to: www.handmadeinbritain.co.uk

Tickets now on sale

Handmade in Britain 14:
Spring Edition

The Contemporary Crafts & Design Fair

9th - 11th May 2014
Chelsea Old Town Hall, London

Spring Edition is open:
Friday 9th: 11:00 - 19:00
Saturday 10th: 11:00 - 18:00
Sunday 11th: 11:00 - 18:00

Tickets are available online now at £5
Tickets on the door are £7/£5 conc.

Spring Series: The Natural World.

A closer look at the work of Barbara Wakefield, Katy B Prints and Emma Farquharson

To celebrate the arrival of spring, longer days and the coming-together of the beautiful work of our Spring Edition exhibitors at Chelsea Old Town Hall, we've been exploring spring, nature and the natural world’s influence in of some of this year’s finest work.

Join us this week as we get a closer insight to some of this year’s designer-makers discovering some of their creative influences and processes. Beginning with the stimuli of…

How do the materials you work in communicate and connect to spring and an awareness of the seasons?

Does the natural world influence your work and creative processes and if so how?

…in this post we’ll be taking a closer look at the vivid textiles work of Katy B Prints, Barbara Wakefield’s delicate ceramics and the geologically inspired jewellery of Emma Farquharson. 

Textiles designer Katy Broomfield draws on the fragility of the natural world in her bright and individually unique creations.

‘Winter to spring, spring to summer, summer to autumn, autumn to winter, my designs are influenced by the cyclical nature of the plants, trees and insects that inhabit my garden in Kent.’

‘Closely linked to the changes of the seasons, the cool greens, cobalt blues and dove greys of Winter, the lemon yellows, whites and pale pinks of Spring, the crisp bands of crimson, magenta, violet, golden yellows and fuchsia pink of Summer and the deep burnt oranges and umbers of Autumn are the constant source of inspiration for all my textiles and prints.’

‘The stark dead heads of Hydrangeas and Honesty in winter, to the graphic seed heads of autumn, are chosen by me to reflect their fragile beauty and structure. Arranging these organic forms onto hand dyed papers and overlaying them with vintage lace and patterned knitwear reminiscent of the 1920's and 30's, the image becomes permanently recorded through heat transfer, onto either soft warm fleece or floaty chiffon's, fixing a particular moment in time for eternity.’

To find out more about Katy B Prints: www.katybprints.co.uk

From her studio in South East London Barbara Wakefield crafts her work in bone china, porcelain and stoneware, drawing on the natural world for inspiration.

‘My work is greatly influenced by the natural world, and at the moment I am fascinated by birds, in particular Blackbirds.  Every year there is one nesting in the yard outside my ceramic studio, and it often scuttles around foraging for food in the tiny urban garden I have created by my doorway.’

‘It is wonderful how the coming of spring is heralded by the sound of ‘Birdsong’.  This is the inspiration behind my slipcast porcelain bowls, reflecting the season of spring with ‘Birdsong’ imagery shown through my drawings of birds and musical notation.’

‘Using a ceramic printing process I imprint this imagery onto the inner surface of the bowls and then use sweeping brush strokes of glaze to create a feeling of rhythm and flow. I also have a great interest in music and musical scores, and am researching into composers who use birdsong in their compositions, such as Olivier Messiaen and Beethoven.’

To find out more about Barbara Wakefield: www.barbarawakefield.co.uk

Emma Farquharson’s work in jewellery take inspiration from her time overseas and in the varied environments and landscapes she has lived in.

 "My formative years were spent in the Bahamas and subsequent time living in Egypt and New York has exposed me to a variety of cultural and aesthetic environments which have profoundly impacted on me.  In my work I enjoy the technical challenge of making, allowing the materials to direct and inform my designs, developing new ideas and ways of manipulating metal, inspired by the rhythmic patterns found in nature and echoed in the built environment.’

‘My signature ‘Spun’ collection focuses on the technique of coiling with wire, pressing and stretching to form work that is pared back yet complex and elegant.  Currently my work explores geometric shapes inspired by the geological rock matrix in which some gems are formed.'

 ‘By carving polyhedral shapes in wax and then casting in silver or gold, I then highlight some of the facets with accents of colour, from stones set against or into the textured and polished surfaces.’

To find out more about Emma Farquharson: www.emmaq.com or find her on facebook.

All the featured designer-makers in our Spring Series: The Natural World blog posts will be exhibiting at Handmade in Britain's up coming event at the Chelsea Old Town Hall. To find out more about the event, and book tickets head to: www.handmadeinbritain.co.uk

Tickets now on sale

Handmade in Britain 14:
Spring Edition

The Contemporary Crafts & Design Fair

9th - 11th May 2014
Chelsea Old Town Hall, London

Spring Edition is open:
Friday 9th: 11:00 - 19:00
Saturday 10th: 11:00 - 18:00
Sunday 11th: 11:00 - 18:00

Tickets are available online now at £5
Tickets on the door are £7/£5 conc.